Nobu Riche

Don’t even think about saying it. In fact, anyone even thinking about asking anyone whether they are, or are not, talking to me is banned from the rest of the magazine. Got that? Not only is it a cliché, it’s a 32-year-old cliché. But as Robert De Niro was in part responsible for the new Nobu restaurant in Dubai’s Atlantis Hotel, you might just be tempted to say it. So don’t.

Anyway, there is very little Taxi Driver-ish – or Goodfellas-ish – about the latest manifestation of the multi-award-winning Nobu franchise. The 1,000 square-metres of space features river stones, fishy ephemera and subtle lighting. The centrepiece is a curved river rock wall spanning 18 metres, with a timber plank dividing the dining areas and a bamboo sushi bar.

Obviously, most people will be turning up for the food, not the décor, and master chef Nobu Matsuhisa has managed to blend his Japanese style with some novel Arabian influences. The broiled black cod with miso sauce ought to have you booking reservations for consecutive nights.